September 7, 2019
I woke around 06:30 AM. I would of stayed in bed a while longer but I needed to go out to the loo. Sitting on the throne you can look out, through the window, across the lake and view Norway on the other side. The border runs almost directly through the middle of the lake. See image 3 below.
I was so excited with the location and the surrounding views that I raced back inside the hut and suggested to my German friend that he should get out of bed and take a look. We both could not see the area properly the evening before when we approached the hut in heavy rain, wind and low cloud. Noticing that there had been some local snow on the surrounding peaks through the night we understood why it felt cold the night before. After the beating I received from the storm yesterday Stuor-Kärpel did not disappoint me. The location was truly beautiful with fantastic views.
I didn’t waste any time to down my breakfast and pack; I wanted to get on trail. It had been one year since I last had been in Swedish Lapland and the “mountains were calling me” as they say.
My route for the day
Elevations graph for the day
I bid my new friend farewell. He was in no rush he said as he was on vacation. I was too but mornings are the best part of the day to hike in my experience. We cross paths a couple of times again later in the day and we camp not far from each other as well in the evening.
Only 1.3 km from Stuor-Kärpel I started the first climb for the day up to 1034 m. Looking back at the the huts I glimpsed my last view of Stuor-Kärpel (image 5).
From the base of the ascent to the highest point is a 5 km climb and a 250 meter height gain. I took a lot of photos and quite a few rests. The views were breathtaking. When I reached flat ground it was so peaceful, quite and wind still. No one else was there.
I then started my 2.5 km “descent” to the lake Valfojaure at height 952 m. However, If you click on the link from my Garmin inReach in image 10 it reads 956 m. It is only 80 meters or so height difference so it doesn’t drop much but the views once again are beautiful and the lake is flowing with fresh blue, mountain, glacial water.
I had to wade across lake Valfojaure (image 11 below). The water went up to just above my knees and there was a decent water flow as well. When I got to the other side I stopped to dry off a little and to have some lunch.
When I was just getting ready to pack up my new German friend came along. I thought he was going to take his time because he was on holidays, I thought to myself 🤔. I asked him if he would be stopping for lunch too but he said that he had already eaten.
|Elevation: 956.00 m||Batt: Normal|
|Lat: 68.270963||Lon: 18.180570|
I found out how he made it to the lake so fast after we got going. He has the longest legs and walks much faster than I ever will. However, we still manage to pass each other a couple of more times in the afternoon. It is nearly impossible to walk fast, like I normally do in the south of Sweden on forest trails. “Rock jumping” in the mountains is not to be taken lightly and requires some careful foot placement on the rocks. The going is slow.
After lunch I headed out first. The German guy, I think his name was Ole 🤔, needed to dry off and put his boots back on again. I just walked straight through with trail shoes on and all. You’ll see that in the YouTube video (Lightweight Backpacking in Swedish Lapland 2019/09 Part 1) when it is published. I’ll put a link in at the bottom of this post later.
At some stage I glimpsed someone in front of me walking without a backpack. I thought it a little strange. “G’day mate” he said …. What would be the odds to come across another Australian out in the middle of the mountains high above the Arctic Circle? He was apparently planning on overnighting in the hut in image 12. We had a chat for a while and then I continued.
From lake Valfojaure to the top of the next climb for the day over Sjangeli at 1023 m is 3.4 km and the height difference is only 71 meters. At the peak of Sjangeli I am at the 12 km mark for the day and once again the views don’t disappoint (image 13) as I look down over the valley towards Unna Allagas.
The descent with views of the lake, with the Sjangeli huts on the eastern side, is magnificent. From the Sjangeli peak to my camp for the day is 4 km and the height difference is 300 meters.
To the right hand side of the huts, image 15, there is an old copper mine. “Closed almost 200 years ago, but left lots of pits in the ground and some houses that are now partly restored.” Refer Tweet below in image 16.
Approximately 1½ KM from Unna Allagas, after crossing the stream first, I found a perfect location for my Tarptent Notch with a beautiful view of the valley east which will take you to Abiskojaure.
My German friend, Ole, stayed on the eastern side of the stream that I had to cross to get to my site. You can just make out the stream in image 17. He’ll be taking his boots off first thing in the morning and getting his feet wet when he has to cross it. I never saw him again. He would be entering Norway from here I believe. I would be heading east in the morning.
At 17:10 PM I sent a message home with my location and advised that I would be camping here for the night.
|Elevation: 715.00 m||Batt: Normal|
|Lat: 68.215666||Lon: 18.193488|
End of day two … to be continued