The Camøno is Denmark’s all-new hiking trail, a 175 kilometer journey across the southern islands of Møn, Nyord and Bogø.
Saturday, March 7th 2020
I was planning on travelling to the west coast of Sweden on the Bjäre Peninsula. This is one of my favourite areas to hike and is part of the Skåneleden trail. It would of taken me a couple of hours to drive there in the car from Denmark. A bus ride back to the car on Sunday was also necessary. However, with all the Coronavirus disease (COVID-19) happenings and restrictions being implemented by the Danish government I decided to either cancel or find somewhere else more local. The choice landed on the Danish Island of Møn.
When I arrived at Klintholm Harbour it started to rain. I sat in the car eating lunch whilst gazing out over the harbour south in the direction of Germany. By the time I was done with my meal the clouds started to clear and I could begin my hike without donning rain gear.
With a temperature around 6℃ it still felt quite chilly with the strong winds gusting in over me from the water. I started out from the harbour along the coastline with both base and middle layers topped off with a wind jacket. After a couple of kilometers I dropped the wind jacket and continued on up towards Busene have. First, I passed Mandemarke Haver, which is where I would normally camp. On inspection I was disappointed to see that someone had created a fire pit on the exact location where I always erect my shelter. The site is under a tree too by the way, brilliant place to start a fire 🤔. Why do people have to do these things and why don’t they practice leave no trace principles and clean up after themselves? I continued to hike east and when I passed the shelters there were some cyclists there already. We greeted one and another as I proceeded on to Busene have.
Busene have lies approximately 4 km from Klintholm Harbour and is classified in Danish as a “fri teltningsområd” which basically means that you are allowed to wild camp there. I spotted several good camp sites that I could use later on my return. I found an appropriate hiding spot and hid a 2 litre Platypus folding water bottle there for camp later in the evening. I found some fallen branches and bark and covered my water supply. I would normally continue north on the coastline up on the beach which presents some spectacular views of the white chalk cliffs.
However, I chose to follow the coastal trail this time which first took me past the lighthouse “Møn Fyr” and then climbing until I reached the GeoCenter at Møns Klint.
I made use of the toilet facilities there and then continued north first past “Dronningstolen” the Queen’s chair and then up to “Store Klint”. Møns Klint is a 6 km stretch of chalk cliffs along the eastern coast of Møn. Some of the cliffs fall a sheer 120 m to the sea below.
At 14:45 pm I backtracked to the GeoCenter and then walked on the road south out of the “Store Klinteskov” forest. You can use the shelters here if you wish, which are situated about 500 m in the forest away from the road. If you opt for that then be aware that you have to pre-book the site beforehand. Continuing I followed the road south which eventually changes into a dirt track. Before I reached Busene have and due west of the Møn Lighthouse there is the below burial mound.
This hill has never been excavated, but it is thought to contain several burial chambers. Most burial mounds were removed in the process of agricultural work, but here at Busene Have in the south you can visit a communal burial site containing a total of 12 mounds.
I located my hidden water cache and continued on to the camp site that I preferred for the evening hoping that no one else had the same idea. I was in luck, there was in fact no other campers around. There were a few locals out for a walk, but after the sun disappeared I was all alone, which is how I like it.
The sunset was spectacular, which it almost always is down here. This island offers some brilliant lighting opportunities that are difficult to experience other places in the country like this. You more or less have to travel right up to the top of Jutland to achieve the same effect, at least in my experience.
There was a log to sit on and a fire pit from previous users. I made a cup of coffee and then soaked my meal in the Vargo BOT-700 pot ready for heating for dinner. After catching up on some social media posts and following up on the progress of the Coronavirus disease (COVID-19) situation I took some time to soak up the views of the sunset whilst I enjoyed my evening meal.
Møn is recognized as one of the darkest and best places in Northern Europe to stargaze ☪️. Before the stars emerged I played around with images of the clouds, the moon and of course my shelter. The event that I witnessed after dinner I regard as “the moment” that I will always remember from my “hiking career” 😀. I sat on a log next to my shelter with some whiskey, chocolate and listened to the Rolling Stones album “Tattoo You”. Yep, I’m an old guy 🤣. It was a perfect moment!
Sunday, March 8th 2020
I awoke with the the bright light of the sun shining from behind me. At first I wasn’t sure what the presence was but then I realised where the light source was coming from. The sun presented itself only briefly that morning as it struggled to burn the clouds away to make its appearance. Although it never rained, the sun never really appeared in full strength and the gusty winds pushed the clouds over above me so that they dominated the skies the rest of the day.
I closed the door on the south side of the shelter, which is where the winds were blowing from. Then I made myself comfortable on the north side of the Duplex and put some water on for coffee. Breakfast was the usual oats and powdered milk with water in a bag.
With breakfast done and camp packed down I made my way west along the coastline back towards Klintholm Harbour. On the previous day the tide was quite high and I got a little wet as the beach disappeared into the cliffs. The water was also high this morning so when I reached Mandemarke Haver I opted to take the track up to the main road and followed it to the harbour where the car was parked. This meant some extra miles but that has never bothered me. I couldn’t of been happier than I was after such a pleasant evening the night before and now been able to ramble in such a beautiful place.
I reached the car again around 9:10 am and I arrived home at just after 10:30 am. This gave me time to take care of my gear and then prepare for the planned upcoming event for next weekend. However, little did I know then what the implications of the Coronavirus disease (COVID-19) would be.
It is now Friday March 13, 2020 and I sit here with great sadness to learn that that all my upcoming planned events have been cancelled directly because of the Coronavirus:
- Outdoorshow in Silkeborg, Denmark (March 14-15)
- European Trail Days 2020 in Umeå, Sweden (May 29-31)
- Danish Outdoor Festival at Naturpark Åmosen, Denmark (April 24-26)
This has also resulted in financial losses for myself because of non-refundable air tickets and hotel bookings. I’ve learnt an expensive lesson about booking the cheapest option, but at least I have my health. As many of you might remember reading, I take medicine that has a side effect; my immune system is effected so I can’t experience any infections without it having some severe implications to my health. For someone like me with my medical condition, I have to take the Coronavirus very seriously. For the moment I work from home, of which I’m thankful that I’m able to do so, keeping my distance from other people and any closed in environments. Let us hope that the situation will change soon and that they find a solution. But for now social distancing is the only cost-effective solution to the coronavirus.