144 km in 4 days
Stages 1 and 2 – Stege (Møns Museum) to Nyord to Elmelunde (Keldborg B&B og Camp) 35 km
Monday May 25, 2020
Driving my car along the main street in Stege I drove past Café Frederik VII on the left when I noticed a parking sign on the right pointing down the alley out the back. Following the sign I parked my car under some trees in the parking lot adjacent the Camøno Trail located between the back of the houses in the main street and Stege Nor (cove). It is free to park the car here. Today’s hike is 35.4 km.
After adjusting my trekking poles to my preferred length of 120 cm I set out heading north-east at 08:30 am. Møns Museum was soon on my left where I crossed the main road following the track until I turned on to Kobbelvej road. This took me up through to the forest where I started a few weeks ago. I actually walked most of today’s hike already starting at the Mosehældgård shelter site and finished at the same location because I parked my car there. But this time I wanted to thu-hike end to end so I opted to re-walk almost the same route again today. I won’t document too many details about these first two stages in this article because I have already posted them on my previous post here.
I couldn’t have been any luckier with the weather in these four days and the following days were just as good after I returned home. The temperatures were up around 18℃ during the day with a minium 10℃ through the nights. There was more or less no rain and plenty of sun and blue skies. On the first day I did experience some very light rain for 10 minutes or so in the afternoon. It was actually a pleasure to walk in with no rain protection as it had been quite hot all day. My total pack weight including food and fuel but excluding water was 8.8 kg. I’ll post my packing list later.
At the start of the single lane bridge that crosses the Ulvshale channel I said hello to a couple that were leaving the island. They had stayed at the shelters at Hyldevang Lejrplads the night before. Here, you are not allowed to pitch a tent. There are 4 shelters available and you need to book to stay there. However, they said that there were no others who stayed at the shelters with them. There is drinking water available at the site and a primitive toilet. I would meet up with them a further two times; today and tomorrow.
Following the same route as I hiked some weeks earlier, I continued on past the octagonal church from 1846 and down to the coastline. I took a lunch break down at Nyord harbour where I found a bench on the side of a building complete with a roof over head. There are about three or four toilets there and some drinking water taps placed on the outside of the buildings. There is also cover from the weather and with sea views. After lunch I continued around the south-west side of the island before heading back the same way that I came from.
Crossing the Ulvshale channel via the bridge first, I then followed the trail through Ulvshale forest and then along Ulvshale beach. I would love to own a summer house in this area. It’s a great location with some beautiful beachfront that is comparable to that in southern Europe. With blue skies as a backdrop and some help from the suns rays the water appears almost turquoise.
It was actually here where it began to rain, however only very slightly and not for long. That was the last of any precipitation for the rest of the hike. At Ulvshale beach there are some clean public toilets where I filled up on my water supplies. I packed a cut-off end section from a Sawyer squeezable pouch (8 grams) and used it as a scoop to fill my 1 litre soda bottle that I use for carrying my water in the warmer months of the year. Filling from shallow sinks can be a challenge when using long water containers. It would of been an impossible task to fill at the hand sink without the scoop. Before the COVID-19 days I just used my folding cup but at the moment I’ll just stick to my scoop.
There are no possibilities for purchasing drinks or snacks at Ulvshale beach. Furthermore, when I have visited Nyord on both occasions, I have not been able to find anywhere open to purchase anything to eat or drink either. However, when I returned home I did some investigating and found out that one establishment that I did walk by called Noorbo Handelen was open between 11:00 am – 17:00 pm. I didn’t really see any signs showing that they sold food or drinks and the place looked very run down and almost like a ruin. I’ll have to try them out if I’m ever in the area again, but I think that they could do a much better job with their image and advertising. A tidy up and some paint would do wonders as well making it appear a little more inviting for a prospective customer so they just don’t walk by like I did.
I took a 10 minute break at the rest area on the opposite side of the wild camping location at Hegnede about a kilometre out of Ulvshale beach. There is a little shelter at the location so I could escape the sun for a while. I removed my shoes as well and gave my feet a little air.
After my break I continued south towards Udby and it was here, where the wind turbines are located, that I passed my new friends that I met on the Nyord bridge earlier in the day. They were heading in the same direction as I was and would be staying at Pension Elmehøj in Elmelunde. I meet them again on day two at Møns Klint. More about that in the next post.
The next 8 km is pure road walking. The views, nature and landscape is great but the roads really suck. This is one of the reasons why people shy off from walking this trail. I hung in there and persisted and I was also rewarded along the way with all the beauty and nature that Møn has to offer. When you view my YouTube video you’ll understand why I write this.
At approximately 18:00 I arrived tired and dirty at Keldborg B&B & Camp at Ålebæks Bakke which is located right next to the trail. I didn’t see anyone around so I walked around to the back of the property where I found the owner sitting at the back of the shed and enjoying the warmth of the sun. She said that I was welcome and that I could use MobilePay to pay her for the camp fees. It cost 25 kr per person + 25 kr per tent and I paid a further 10 kr to take a 2 minute hot shower.
I pitched my Zpacks Duplex and packed out my gear. I was excited to be using my Therm-A-Rest Neoair Uberlite sleeping pad for the very first time. I purchased it last fall on special. It only weighs 244 grams including the standard stuff sack. With my evening meal in my pot mixed together with some water to soak for a while, I then strolled over to the shed to find the fridge that I had been told was there.
In the fridge were some sodas and some nice cold beers. I sent a further 10 kr. via MobilePay for a beer to the owner and enjoyed it while I witnessed a gorgeous sun setting over my shelter at the back of the farm. No one else stayed there for the night. I only shared the camp with some resident chickens that strolled the farm freely and who were very precise at dawn the next morning with their wake-up call by the way. The birds did not come up to my tent and were no bother for me at all. They also have a pig in a pen in the corner but I didn’t hear it at all. There is an outdoors kitchen area with a sink and water tap. The toilet and bathroom was clean. I had everything that I needed here and I would recommend this establishment to anyone wishing to stay here.
You can view and download my map here on AllTrails
Total distance walked today is 35.4 km
end of day 1 … to be continued