Camøno thru-hike Day 3 – Stage 5

144 km in 4 days

Stage 5 and the last 4 km of stage 4 – Mandemarke Haver to Fanefjord Church 44 km via Råbylille Beach, Oddermose Beach and Hårbølle Harbour

Wednesday May 27, 2020

I’ve always been an early riser and today was no exception. Out of bed at 05:00 am and on trail at 06:30 am. There was a short 4.5 km road walk to Klintholm Harbour. On other occasions I have followed the coastline instead to Klintholm cutting out 1 km but the tide was high and sometimes it can be difficult walking around the point so I opted for the road walk.

Camøno Trail Møn & Nyord 3

It was such lovely weather and a perfect hiking temperature so I was happy no matter what road surface I was walking on. At the boat harbour I rinsed out my water bottle and filled up with a fresh supply. I made use of the toilets while I was there too. They are well looked after and very clean. The little corner store (Brugsen) didn’t open until later so I couldn’t purchase any goodies there. I was hoping to find somewhere later in the day just to buy some little treat for myself.

Råbylille Strand (beach)

From Klintholm Harbour to Råbylille Strand (beach) there is a distance of 4.5 km. When I arrived at the parking area at Råbylille Strand there was a man there who welcomed me. We had a nice chat for a while. His daughter lives in Melbourne, Australia. It’s a small world. He was doing some voluntary work trimming the edges and mowing the grass at the car park. He owns a summer house at the beach in the area. His wife was also out hiking a couple of stages of the Camøno. They were both in their late 80’s. He said that his legs were not up to so much walking anymore so he was happy to be just involved in this work here. I hope that I’m as healthy as he is when I reach his age. Before I departed I topped up on water from the toilets at the car park. The amenities were nice, clean and well maintained.

Important – please take note

The next 30 km from Råbylille Strand (beach) down to Camping Vestmøn, just before Hårbølle Harbour, there are no possibilities to refill water supplies unless you go in to a private residence and ask, which I did on one occasion. However, after leaving the coastline at Råbylille Strand (beach), you follow sealed road again and when you reach Tåstrup just after the village of Keldbylille there is a lifesaver for you, more on that in a moment.

Råbylille Strand (beach)
Råbylille Strand (beach)

Just after the little village of Keldbylille I could feel the sun’s rays stinging my calves on the back of my legs. I stopped to apply some sun protection to them. I didn’t have to worry about my neck and hands as my thin hoodie covered them nicely. I have some thumb holes in my long sleeves so that most of my hands were covered too. The only thing I forgot about were my lips. My bottom lip became quite burnt actually and I was still suffering with blisters and sores 14 days after I had returned home.

When I first arrived at Tåstrup I stopped in the middle of the very small village and rested on a bench under a tree near a pond. This was all very nice but what I should of done was continued for only 50 metres more and I would of noticed the cold drinks for sale sign. This was my lifesaver. A private resident has placed a fridge in a cart on the side of the road. There were cold beers, water and sodas. I suggest to walk here first and then walk back to the pond and rest in the shade on a park bench. If you need to then buy some more water here as well. You can pay with cash or MobilePay. I downed a cold cola and then continued my adventure.

looking back towards Tøvelde and with Stege in the background across the cove
looking back towards Tøvelde and with Stege in the background across the cove

Follow the road from Tåstrup to Svensmarke near Stege Nor (cove). You can now see Stege from here on the opposite side of the cove. Follow the road to Tøvelde and then head up the hill on a gravel track past the wind turbine at Bringtoftegård and then follow it down to the coastline at Hjelm Bugt (bay). From Råbylille Strand (beach) and down to the coastline near Oddermose Strand (beach) the distance is 10 km.

Hvideklint (the white cliffs) after Oddermose Strand (beach)
Hvideklint (White Cliff) after Oddermose Strand (beach)

For the next 5.5 km I followed the beach once again along Hvideklint (White Cliff). Hvideklint was formed by a huge landslide of chalk which under the last ice-age was moved here from Møns Klint where I was yesterday afternoon.

Hvideklint (White Cliff) after Oddermose Strand (beach)
there were hundereds of swallows nesting in the cliff

I was amazed at how much nature Møn has to offer while I hiked these last few days. Birdlife, frogs, hares, deer just to name a few. I stood for a while admiring the swallows flying busily in and out of their nests in the cliff face. It was very hot at this stage and it was here, I believe that my bottom lip was sunburnt the most due to the reflection of the sun’s rays being bounced off the water in the sea on my left.

a tree slide at Hvideklint (White Cliff) after Oddermose Strand (beach)
a tree slide at Hvideklint (White Cliff) after Oddermose Strand (beach)

At Hjelm Nakke I leave the beach again and head first into Grønved Skov (forest), Strandskov (forest) and finally Fanefjord Skov (forest). But first I walked 300 m from the beach up to the main road where I turned left. It was just here on the corner that I noticed an outside tap on a house in the front courtyard. I knew that the owners were home because I noticed that the back door was open when I walked past the back side of the property. I went in and knocked on the front door and asked the nice lady if I was allowed to fill my water bottle. She obliged and so I now had enough water to get me through my hike for the rest of the day. Between Grønved Skov and Strandskov (forests) I crossed a road at Rytsebæk and just as I entered the forest again I noticed that a boom gate was lying half on the ground. I decided to stop for some lunch here where I could sit for a while out of the hot sun.

Grønved Skov (forest)

Leaving Fanefjord forest, I then road walked through the little village called Vindebæk. On the north side of Vindebæk there is a shelter site located at Slotshavevej 9. I did not take a look but I don’t think that you can collect any water there. Leaving Vindebæk I passed Strandgård on my right and down to the coastline arriving at Hjelm Bay once more. From Hjelm Nakke to Strandgård the distance is 12 km.

heading south after Vindebæk and past Strandgård to the beach again
heading south after Vindebæk and past Strandgård to the beach again

I still have to cover 6 km before I reach my goal for the day. At Hårbølle Strand (beach) I walk through Camping Vestmøn to the reception and the other main buildings where I was able to top up with some fresh water. It was a lovely site and a great location I noted. The establishment is not manned during the day. Between 08:00 am and 10:00 am daily the owners come by the grounds and collect camp fees and check up on who is there and who is not supposed to be there.

Hårbølle Havn (harbour)

Then I continued on to Håbølle Havn (harbour) where I was hoping that something was open there and an opportunity to buy something for dinner. A hamburger would go down well. I was very tired, sun burnt and worn out. However, I was to be disappointed once again, there was no life at the harbour and no shop of any kind open for business.

Fanefjord Kirke (church)
Fanefjord Kirke (church)

On the last 2 km from Hårbølle Harbour to the campground Fanefjord church appeared in all her glory on the horizon. The church dates from around 1300 and standing on the top of the hill, the church’s red-tiled roof and whitewashed walls looked magnificent. It was a shame that some maintenance was being carried out as the scaffolding did not compliment the view. But the church was a very welcome site because this meant that my 44 km was in the house. By the way, this is the longest day stretch that I have ever walked. Congratulations Brian!

Nature Camp Møn - Close to Fanefjord Church
camp 3 at Nature Camp Møn close to Fanefjord Church

About 300 m NE from Fanefjord church the Naturlejrplads Møn -Tæt ved Fanefjord kirke (Nature Camp Møn) is located. It is a privately owned and run campsite. Small and simple; just the way I like doing things. It costs 30 kr to stay the night. The owner, Preben Knud Rasmussen, was most welcoming and you can pay with cash or MobilePay. You may stay in the cabin where there is room for 3 or in your own tent.

Nature Camp Møn - Close to Fanefjord Church
cabin with room for 3

You can make payment in the caravan or do as I did and pay by MobilePay to Preben.

Nature Camp Møn - Close to Fanefjord Church
the caravan where you may make payment and write in the guest book

There is also a small black guest book in the caravan. Preben kindly asked that you write in it. Please remember to do so as I forgot, mostly because I didn’t go in the caravan and Preben was disappointed about that. I ended up writing a few words on his Facebook group page to smooth things over. Sorry about that Preben.

Nature Camp Møn - Close to Fanefjord Church
The owner, Preben Knud Rasmussen

There is running water available and a primitive toilet on site. The long grass was most comfortable to sleep on by the way. I felt very welcome and I enjoyed my stay.

Nature Camp Møn - Close to Fanefjord Church
running water

Not long after the sun disappeared on the horizon I retired to bed and slept like a baby being quite content with my efforts that I had put in for the day.

You can view and download my map here on AllTrails

Total distance walked today is 44 km

end of day 3 … to be continued

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