144 km in 4 days
Fanefjord Church to Stege 37 km via Hårbølle, Store Damme, Askeby, Sprove, Møn Bridge, Store Lind and Damsholte
Thursday May 28, 2020
I was up early as usual, just after 05:00 am to be precise. Sleeping on the long grass I slept like a baby after completing 44 km the day before. The birds made a lot of noise but I’ll never complain about them. Talking with Preben, the owner of the campsite, the night before he said that sections 6 and 7 on the island of Bogø were both on sealed roads. The island is quite nice but I really wasn’t up to carrying out more road walking than I needed to today. The narrow road over the dam crossing between Møn and Bogø particularly did not appeal to me. It was the main road to Møn when approaching from the south with a lot of traffic using it. There were several supply trucks each day who delivered their goods to the island. They used the road often and you have to share the narrow crossing with them. So I decided not to hike these two sections this time round and to come back one weekend at a later date to complete them.
Witnessing the most beautiful sunrise my day was already looking great. The photo below was taken at 05:36 am while I was standing at the back of Fanefjord church looking east.
I strolled up to the church grounds to catch a glimpse of Fanefjord (you can see the fjord in the background of the below photo). The sun’s morning rays danced beautifully on the white church walls. It looked magnificent with the contrasting blue sky in the background.
Back at camp the suns rays forced their way through the trees at the back of the property and landed on my tent. I ate breakfast, downed a quick coffee and packed. I was on trail by 07:30 am. Thank you for letting me stay at your campsite Preben!
Most of the day today you walk on sealed secondary roads. There are some trails through farmland and coastline but don’t expect better than that. The first part of the trail took me back the way I came from the afternoon before south and then a walk 2 km east towards Hårbølle. I could view Fanefjord Church all morning from different perspectives as I circled first south, east and then north of the it. Just before Hårbølle I stopped to admire some chives flowering in full bloom. The chive plant will flower in late spring or early summer. The flowers are edible and taste best just after they have opened.
I walked through the little village called Vollerup and then just before I had to turn left and head towards Store Damme this beautiful old property called Præstebjerggård presented itself.
I got a little excited when I came through Store Damme which is a slightly larger town and with their own store called “Dagli’ Brugsen Fanefjord”. The time was 09:00 am so it was too early for lunch but I thought that I could buy something for a morning tea break and then have something for an early lunch as well. I forgot to purchase some more sun protection while I was there. I was quite annoyed at myself for doing so. I bought a banana and some iced coffee to eat and drink straight away. That was kind of nice. I also purchased a ham and cheese sandwich and some trail mix that I packed out for lunch. My Therm-a-Rest Z-seat pad protected my lunch from the warmth of the sun’s rays. I strapped the seat pad to the top of my pack with the reflecting silver side on the top.
From Store Damme I followed the road through Askeby where I turned left and headed north towards Røddinge Sø (lake). Even though I was walking on sealed roads, which in my view is not so enjoyable, there was no traffic and it was a pleasant walk. After hiking west for a while around the lake I then came to a T-junction where I turned right. The main road was called Røddingevej and I started walking north again until I reached the small village of Røddinge. From here there is a short 1.5 km to the shelter at Sprove.
At the Poul Ankers Shelterplads in Sprove there are 2 shelters, a toilet and a newly installed water tap. All very well kept too. Established in 2016 by the local Røddinge community.
I ate an early lunch (10:30 am) in one of the shelters, used the toilet (that banana and the iced coffee did some quick work on my stomach) and topped up my water supplies from the recently installed tap. It is the local Røddinge community that have built and maintain the shelter site. Well done guys!
After “lunch” the walk to Kong Asger Høj (King Asger Mound) was only 1.2 km from Sprove. Kong Asgers Høj is a large passage grave. The megalithic structure dates back to Neolithic Funnel Beaker culture. The grave consists of a chamber with a long passage. These type of graves are found primarily in Scandinavia, Germany and occasionally in France and the Netherlands.
It was quite a sight for sore eyes viewing the Møn bridge with the wind turbines at Toftegård in the foreground. Now I knew that I had nearly accomplished my goal and walked around the whole island. I just needed to get to the Møn Camping grounds near the bridge and then hike into Stege where I started some days ago via Damsholte and Stege Nor (cove).
At the little village of Koster I turned west and walked the 700 metres down to the coastline where I then changed heading once again to NW towards Møn bridge. But first I had to negotiate a herd of cattle. Luckily these guys were not as aggressive as the Swedish cows that I have encountered on trail. You can read more about one of my “cow encounters” from Sweden here. From the coastline and the cows there were a further 2 km up to the Møn Bridge Camping grounds.
Møn Bridge or the Queen Alexandrine bridge is a road arch bridge that crosses Ulv Sound between the islands of Zealand and Møn. The bridge seems to be called several names: Ulvsundbroen or Mønbroen (Møn Bridge) and Dronning Alexandrines Bro (Queen Alexandrine bridge). It was opened on May 30, 1943.
At Mønbroen Camping, which is an official Camønopause (stop), I had expected great things. I was soon to be very disappointed! At the reception the lady at the counter didn’t seem to be interested in anything that I had to say. I explained that I had almost completed walking around the whole island to which she had nothing positive or negative to say; she was quite indifferent. I was very excited actually; what a lovely achievement I thought to myself. I seemed to be an interruption to her “busy schedule” and as soon as I was gone I got the impression that her day would only get a whole lot better.
I read on the official website that they have Camønoens best burgers. This is not the case. They do not have take-away food here and the “grocery store” as advertised is a measly couple of half empty shelves at the reception with no sun protection on offer which is all I was needing. Disappointed I purchased an ice-cream and a cola for my second lunch. I asked if there was an area where I could sit and enjoy my newly purchased items. Yes, I could just sit outside in the hot sun with no shade on the table and chairs. Great, I’ve been walking in the hot sun for days!
I walked down to the camping kitchen area and went inside. Due to the Corona restrictions only 4 people (2 couples) were allowed in there at any one time. I found a chair at the table and sat there for half an hour or so. It was still hot in the room but at least I had some shade. No one else entered the kitchen area. The building was new and so were the toilet facilities. That was nice. Before leaving I topped up my water bottle from the kitchen tap.
After my break at the Camønopause I picked up the trail again just outside the camping grounds. A sign showed that one should turn left at the end of the property and my map showed the same direction. However, there was no sign of a path or anything that resembled a path; only high grass and weeds. Furthermore, there was an empty boat trailer parked there right across where the trail was supposed to be. I couldn’t work it out. So I decided to follow the bike path to the village of Koster instead. I don’t think that I missed out on much but it was still quite annoying. Once I got down to Koster, which is where I had turned and walked west earlier in the day, I then followed the road east until I arrived at the junction at Kostervig 3 km from Møn Bridge.
At the junction there is a rest area with toilets and if you are up for it there is a Chinese restaurant on the opposite corner. It was a little hot in the afternoon for that type of food so I continued. Then there is a long 4 km stretch of road walking south to Damsholte via Store Lind where I changed direction to east.
At Damsholte I stopped for a break near Ny Gammelsø where I ate an oatmeal bar and removed my trail shoes to air my feet out for a while. After my break I continued for 1.5 km on a farmland track which was a nice change from the sealed roads.
The track emerged at Astrupgård where I turned and headed north entering the last stretch of 9 km road walking back to Stege and my car. At Neble I turned right until I came to Stege Nor (cove) where I headed left and north again up to Stege. By this time of the day the sun was sitting low in the sky and it was beating me up big time. I had to stop several times under some shade of a tree or building just to get out of the heat for a bit. I could really feel it on my face now. I tried to keep the brim of my hat pointing down so as to protect my face but it was not enough. When I returned home I could see that I had copped a good bashing from the sun on my face even though I had a hat on and my hoodie pulled up over my head.
A group of people approached me as I was making my way back to my car. They greeted me and explained that it was not the first time we had spoken to each other. We had seen each other a few times on one of the previous days. They were on bicycles and I’m not sure if they said that they had seen me on some other day on the island as well. I could remember them once they said that they passed me on bikes. We chatted for a while and I told them about my blog and YouTube channel and so on. If you guys are reading this now then thank you for stopping me and say hello. I really appreciated that!
At 18:00 pm I was sitting at Café Frederik VII after I had left my backpack stored in the trunk of my car. Frederik VII was King of Denmark from 1848 to 1863. I ordered a Konge Burger (King Burger) and a large cola. The weather was fantastic and I felt great sitting there in the main street of Stege. There were a lot of people about enjoying the great weather making the most of the lifted COVID-19 restrictions. I felt like a king eating a king burger sitting there at an outside table and chair at a king’s café being served on like a king!
You can view and download my map here on AllTrails
Total distance walked today the final day = 37 km
Total distance walked in 4 days = 144 km