The Trail (120 km)
Bornholm is a Danish island in the Baltic Sea, to the east of the rest of Denmark, south of Sweden, northeast of Germany and north of the westernmost part of Poland occupying an area of 588.36 square kilometres (227.17 sq mi). The Bornholm Coast Path (Kyststien) is a 4-5 day hike (120 km) around the square sized 1.7 billion year old granite rock island.
My map is also available on AllTrails here
My total base weight including photography equipment was 4.5 kg. The total pack weight includes food and fuel but does not include water. The full packing list can be found here.
|TOTALS||total base weight||all gear NOT worn or consumed||4528|
|total pack weight||all gear NOT worn + consumables added (not including water)||6687|
|total skin out weight||pack weight + clothing worn||8705|
DAY 1 – Monday Sep 14, 2020 (13.7 km)
My bus, called Kombardo Expressen, departed Copenhagen from in front of the DGI building at 10:30 am. The bus stop is right next to Copenhagen Central Station so it is really easy to get there and locate. Wearing my compulsory face mask because of the current covid-19 situation, I located a seat on the upper level of the double decker bus. I was thankful that the bus was not fully booked and that I was able to sit on my own with no one occupying the seat besides me. We travelled first over the Sound to Sweden on Øresund Bridge (Øresundsbroen) and then continued south-east to Ystad. The bus ride took about 1 hour 15 minutes. We boarded the boat to Bornholm 30 minutes or so after we arrived at the harbour. The boat was late departing so the time was well after 2 pm when I arrived at Rønne. My hike started at approximately 2:30 pm from the information center in Rønne where the Kombardo Expressen has a bus stop designated to them. On Friday I will return to this same location to board my bus for the return trip home.
I headed south out of Rønne, walking first through some streets south of the harbour on the backside of the Bornholm Military Museum. Catching a glimpse of the Baltic Sea I walked for a short distance parallel to the beach and then on to Strandvejen and finally on Søndre Landevej.
Then I had to negotiate around the Bornholm Airport walking on the sealed bike path. The “road walk” was approximately 4.5 km around the airport.
After the airport I sighted a toilet some 100m off the road at a rest area where I could collect some more water. Finally just south of Arnager, I found some more signs indicating the Bornholm Kyststi. At Mølledal I located the Arnager shelters. The sun was beating down on me and at this stage I was sweating profusely. I wouldn’t want to sleep here tonight I thought, that’s for sure; the shelters looked claustrophobic to me. I wanted to sleep in my new tent anyhow and the idea of being cooped up in one of those shelters for the night was not very appealing to me at all. The location however was a fantastic one with great ocean views and the opportunity to witness beautiful sunsets.
I continued on trying to locate the “Kyststi” signs again. After the shelters you have to walk on the rocky beach for 2 kilometers down to Sose Odde where there were some fishing huts and some boats stored near the huts.
Some of the coastline was difficult to traverse so I sort of walked a little on some trail I found up on the embankment (not the Kyststi apparently) and some on the beach which was rock and not sand. Before Sose Odde I managed to work my way to the coastline again after I cut up my legs on some brush. I must of missed the trail or something because the section there was overgrown. At the little harbour at Sose Odde I chatted briefly with a German tourist who was out walking. He said that it was the German late summer vacation period or something like that at the moment and that he came to Bornholm for some peace and quiet. From the point at Sose Odde I then I followed the path for one kilometer around to my campsite at Sose Bugt arriving approximately at 6 pm.
The legal primitive campsite can accommodate 3 to 4 tents. There are some toilets and water available only 150 meters away further up the embankment in the corner of the car park. There were a couple of cars parked in the car park next to the toilets but when I went to bed later that night I checked again and they were all gone. When I looked down the coastline earlier I could see some fishermen who were wearing waders out in the water. The cars must of belonged to them I thought. All over the immediate area, except for my site, there were clearly marked “no camping allowed” signs everywhere. On this Monday night I was lucky to have the whole place to myself. With the cover from the trees I was already pleased that I would be packing a dry tent away in the morning.
After the tent was pitched and my sleep system was all arranged I set about preparing my evening meal. I was quite happy with the new tent. Even though it was just a DCF version of my older Notch, that I have used for five years, it was still very different to pitch. The floor attachment at the bottom of the trekking poles sort of just sits under the poles. The pressure from the apex tie outs is enough to force the bottom of the trekking poles to hold the floor attachments in place. It was also strange to roll the doors up and keep them fixed in place with a magnet after using standard tie outs for years on my older Notch.
It would be dark soon so there was no more time to stop and admire it. I had packed some homemade dehydrated food. I didn’t worry too much about fussing with hydrating it; I just added some water and boiled the meal. Then I waited for a little while letting it “simmer” under my towel which acted as a cozy. In the meantime I admired the sunset, which was beautiful, and cleaned myself up a little after the sweaty hike today. I was going to go for a swim but when I went down to the water there were a lot of rocks and seaweed so I opted for a quick cleanup instead.
I was so lucky with the weather that I experienced on this hike. I was sitting here in just shorts and T-shirt on this beautiful evening. There was no wind, no insects and no people around. Life just couldn’t be any better.
When I retired to bed I kept one of the doors open on both sides of the tent. The Notch was pitched under some low tree cover so I would have no dew on the fly in the morning. Things couldn’t of been anymore perfect. I slept with my quilt fully zipped open so it was just like sleeping at home. Using the Therm-A-Rest Neoair Uberlite since late Spring this year I couldn’t recommend this sleeping pad enough. I sleep very well on it and in my experience it is not noisy like some people often suggest. I think that it is more comfortable than the Therm-A-Rest Neoair XLite (which is the sleeping pad that I would normally use) because the material seems softer and nicer to sleep on.
Today’s hike covered 13.7 km with 157 m ascent and 157 m descent
… to be continued on the next post: Bornholm Coastal Trail – Day 2